A Small Island Packs a Huge Wallop

(Our Ferry to Key West)

On Wednesday; I left my paint brushes and canvases behind to join my husband and our friends on a one-day trip to Key West. When we arrived at Fort Myers Beach it was still bright and early. Too late we discovered that others had beaten us to the punch. There were only a few seats left on the boat as we boarded.

After four long hours of bobbing and bouncing across the water, meeting new people and watching a movie, we arrived. We decided to take a train ride around the island to orient our sea legs and find out what the island had to offer. Big mistake! After our two-hour journey, we had only 3.5 hours left to eat and get back to the ship.

We enjoyed a magnificent lunch and friendly chatter only to discover we were running out of time. We didn’t make it back to tour Earnest Hemingway's home or the Harry S. Truman domain. We learned that an overnight stay is a must if you’re going to really experience Key West. We heard the night life is unbeatable!

We learned that the island has no water supply and depends almost entirely on rainfall which is captured in huge tanks. Because of the moisture, tin roofs are being replaced with stainless steel. Most of the island is very old and has a rich history. The newer areas are located on the boardwalk that frames the harbor where new restaurants are in abundance.

Key West was once a wild life preserve. The locals had their own livestock as well. Today Chickens and roosters are protected on Key West and run wild everywhere. I tried to snap a photo, but they are also very fast!

The island is much smaller than I anticipated. Most people rent mopeds or bicycles for getting to and from work or for sightseeing. If we do get back, we definitely would stay overnight. During “Season,” however, the average rate is $279 per night and up. We were told there were two cheaper hotels, but I’m sure they were booked solid.

The weather is always temperate. The restaurant we ate in had no air conditioning, but had ceiling fans which brought the exotic air in from the open windows and doors. The food was excellent. Prices are inexpensive to moderate during the day and somewhat higher at night.

There is a large artist population and gays have put their stamp on the community. One hotel boasted “all men,” while a restaurant/museum suggested that “clothes are optional.” They may have been making reference to the bathing suit and bikini clad patrons or they may have meant what they said. Since we had no time to explore, we never found out.

What I will always remember are the tropical plants, colorful flowers, and unusual trees. Above all else, the exquisite tropical blue waters have left their imprint on my artist’s heart and soul forever.

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Tides by Any Other Name Would Smell as Stinky!

"Window on Pine Island" 16x20 wrapped oil on canvas

What is coarse, toxic, sweeps up marine life in its wake and kills? If you guessed a broom, we're done here. If you answered pollution, you're close. If you said red tides, you're dead on. Never heard of these menacing algae? Let me introduce you.

Every summer at the height of tourist season, a tangle of brownish algae and dead fish cascades onto the Gulf Coast's pristine beaches and the stink is overwhelming; as my mother used to say, "Enough to gag a maggot." What makes these algae such a menace? They produce one of the deadliest toxins known to man.

(original photo of Pine Island)

These harmful algal blooms or HABS wreak havoc on local fishing industries to the tune of $82 million each year. The toxins affect the central nervous system of fish, killing them in vast numbers; limiting the quantities of fresh fish that fisheries depend on. Toxins also may poison shellfish like clams, oysters, and mussels, and make the humans who eat them sick.

These red tide masses affect marine ecosystems in a number of ways. Dense blooms can block sunlight that benefit good algae and sea grasses needed for food. Wildlife and marine mammals like seabirds, manatees, turtles and dolphins may not only get sick, they may die. Hundreds of manatees died as a result of Red Tide in 2012. Humans may suffer severe respiratory or skin ailments. In addition to that, red tides are downright unsightly.

My first reaction to walking on the beach after a red tide wash up was repulsion. Hundreds of putrid dead fish trapped in strange-looking seaweed covered the white sand driving me and many other tourists back to our hotels. Like them, I wanted to know what this stuff was, what it did, and how we could stop it.

Red tides are composed of microscopic algae known as dinoflagellates; their scientific name: karenia brevis. The algal cells are asexual. They produce simply by dividing. To complicate matters, each cell is capable of movement via two flagella that propels them through the water. There is no brainwork involved in this confluence or joining of forces. They drift with the water's ebb and flow, bumping together to form large clumps or "blooms" as their numbers increase.

What makes dinoflagellates different from other microscopic algae? At least two things: their rapid growth and their toxicity both of which raise more questions than answers. Why do these organisms suddenly explode into a massive growing binge? What triggers this growth and why does it produce toxins in some algae and not in others?

Biologists and scientists believe pollution of our waterways may be the leading factor. Pesticides, fertilizers and chemicals are washed into surrounding rivers and lakes and eventually find their way into the sea. At the mouth of these inlets and tributaries, red tides get their first burst of growth which certainly points to pollution as the cause.

But there's a catch: red tides are not a new phenomenon. Fish kills from deadly algae were recorded in 1840 and as long ago as the Spanish explorers who wrote about them in their logs. After years of red tides research, there is still no conclusive evidence or link to pollution. Like many quirks of nature, the trigger may be from natural causes or a series of events that are little understood.

The Fish and Wildlife Research Institute (FWRI) in Florida conducts Red Tide Reports on a regular basis during critical growing periods. Using satellite imagery, high levels of chlorophyll are monitored for possible resurgence of red tides. With the help of modern technology, experts record the size, rate of growth, and location of these HABS.

FWRI works in partnership with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) under the supervision of the U.S. Department of Commerce. NOAA's goal is to "provide the tools to prevent, control, or mitigate the occurrence of HABS." Because red algae can be found in almost any waterway, research labs are positioned worldwide.

(I want to paint this beautiful Fuschia)

If you would like information about red tides in your own locale, go to http://www.noaa.gov.

What is the missing component that explains why red tides grow faster and wilder during certain times of the year? Is pollution the cause as some suggest? Or is it increased water temperature that naturally encourages the growth of most algae? Until the mystery is solved, Gulf residents and vacationers around the globe must continue to endure the irritation, the blight and the stink of red tides.

Do you have a "stinky" problem in your neck of the woods? Please share it with us.

Time Off for Love

When you live in Florida, you get visitors. This is the place to come when winter starts scratching its cold fingernails into your psych. But in June, when the temperatures sore to 98 and the humidity is almost as high? Yes, if you're a school teacher.

My son the teacher and his family have been spending some time with us, and we have been having a great time, in spite of the heat. We enjoyed the beach yesterday. Yes, Southern Florida's beaches are still clean and beautiful! We saw pelicans, dolphins, gulls and sea birds, diving for fish and bobbing in the water. Overhead, parasailing beachgoers strapped to bright red, white and blue balloons dotted the skyline. A wonderful day!

After our swim, the Edison Estates and the gigantic banyan tree were a big hit, followed by a chow down at Joe's Crab Shack on the wharf. The children had their first experience at cracking crab and picking out the sweet meat. A shark's blood drink was the topper, followed by fresh key lime pie, tart and creamy.

We crammed as much as we could into the few short days they were here. Lakes Park and the water play area and train helped us to cool down. We saw an alligator, many wading birds, and this anhinga who paused from his fishing to dry off his wings.

In the evening, playing games with the grandchildren before going to bed was the perfect way to end each day. My next blog, I'll get back to my usual artsy diatribes, and my "rooster in progress."